Keeping it Real – A Southern Ale Safari

Sometimes I have a dream where idyllic, remote country pubs and the technology behind the Star Trek Transporter are brought together to allow us city-dwellers to fully appreciate all that these picturesque public houses have to offer, free from the shackles of the designated driver. Then I wake up.

A great country pub must, by definition, exist at a reasonable distance from town and so what makes it so great – its location – can also pose a conundrum to a large proportion of potential punters. Until teleportation becomes a reality Southern Ale Safaris (SAS) have created a cunning solution. In fact SAS go on to do so much more. In one fell swoop the issues of recommendation, location and accommodation are all addressed along with liberal doses of education, and fascination for good measure. Their three day ale safaris will allow you to safely experience the glorious countryside, local attractions, breweries, good food and great beer gardens of Sussex all wrapped in the happy glow that only a few pints of real ale can deliver.

It’s a safari of discovery. A safari on which you can hunt through many wonderful environments, peering through low oak doorways to discover dazzling arrays of local ales. A safari on which you will doubtless learn how a great ale is brewed and then slowly forget again as you befuddle yourself in search of the perfect balance of hops and malted grains. A safari on which maybe, just maybe, you’ll see Gok Wan mucking about on a beer garden bench whilst you tuck into your Sunday lunch (happened to me at The Ram Inn, Firle). This, my ale-loving comrades, is not a dream.

Southern Ale Safaris have chosen The Star at Alfriston as the base camp and, on arriving for a pre-match coffee and a freshly baked cookie, it was easy to see why. The three-star hotel, situated right on the high street of this picture postcard village, boasts some serious historical pedigree with the original 13th Century Inn still forming the lounge, bar and two feature guest rooms. Now extended to include a restaurant and 35 more double rooms, The Star Inn was perfectly equipped to keep us ale hunters comfortable and the staff could not have been more welcoming and helpful throughout our stay. (Note: Reports of paranormal activity could not be confirmed but we did hear the stories!)

We started our safari with a trip to the new premises of Dark Star Brewing Company at Partridge Green, a far cry from their humble beginnings at the Evening Star in Brighton. Day one and just shy of 11am but here was our first ‘sighting’ of our ‘quarry’, jugs of ale were being filled as we arrived and well… go on then, it’d be rude not to! Paul Reed, Director at Dark Star was engaging in his presentation of the story behind the company’s success and his introduction to the brewing process, so much so that even my ale-abstaining wife commented on how surprisingly interesting that part of the safari had been. I, on the other hand, was enthralled from the get-go by the sheer scale of the brewing apparatus. Giant silver silos connected by pipes and linked to a control panel not unlike that of the Star Trek Transporter room. I left satisfied, slightly squiffy and knowing that sometime soon I’d need a shed, a big shed.

The time had come to be transported to our first pub – “beam me up, Clive!”. Our driver for the weekend, Mr Clive, was one of SAS’s key assets. His friendly demeanor and extensive knowledge of the locality and the locals proved a hit with everyone. (You could drive on the A27 for many years without realising that you were passing the very spot where the actor Desmond Llewelyn, Q in the Bond movies, lost his life, but not if you’re travelling with Mr Clive.) As an honorary member of CAMRA, bestowed for driving many thousands of members to campaign meetings over the years, he also knew a thing or two about all the Taverns and Inns we didn’t have time to stop at. As we were chauffeured around the highways and byways of the Sussex countryside his commentary helped to keep us all refreshed and entertained as we awaited the next discovery.

Where the safari excels is in its choice of drinking establishments. Sussex boasts a bevy of corking countryside drinking establishments. For me the ‘find’ of the weekend was The White Horse at Maplehurst. How have I lived so long in Sussex without discovering this beautiful country pub? Perhaps it was the novelty, the early afternoon sun haze, or the incredible wisteria curtain that covered the front of the building, but everything about this pub shouted ‘Proper!’. The pump clips hinted that things were about to get even better and how right they were. My pint of 1648 Brew Master was stupendous. One of those magical moments when an ale and its surroundings harmonise perfectly to produce maximum satisfaction. These are the trophies that every ale safari hunter hopes to collect.

Later on I would meet the man responsible for brewing that pint. Dave Seabrook of 1648 represented one of four local breweries that came along to The Star on the Saturday evening. Dave’s passion for brewing was evident from the way he carefully coaxed the beers from their bottle-conditioned homes and I soon discovered another favourite of the weekend, ‘Hop Pocket’. Other breweries represented on the night were Beachy Head, Hepworth and Whites. The evening was complimented perfectly by a buffet dinner featuring favourites from The Star’s restaurant menu, showcasing some great cooking and some fine local produce such as Battered Cod, landed in Newhaven, and Sussex Lamb and Onion Skewers. This high-class finger food helped keep us fuelled as we worked our merry ways around the tasting tables.

As you would expect Southern Ale Safaris have put together a tour that rarely strays from your next ale. However, there is some planned respite from drinking. The trip to The Observatory Science Centre at Herstmonceux on the Sunday morning proved a great chance to muck about with the giant interactive exhibits and try to convince my body that another drink was going to be a good idea. Our SAS guide, James, was keen to point out that all safaris are designed to be adaptable enabling elements of the tour to be adjusted to suit the group taking part; no two safaris will ever be the same. This flexibility was evident on our tour as the scheduled visit to Lewes was switched to a pint and skittles at The Fountain Inn and a walk around Steyning. Later in the tour I was much relieved when we finally made The Cricketers, Berwick, on the third time of passing. Time pressures having kept it tantalisingly out of reach on the previous occasions.

One last glorious beer garden in which to drain one last pint, a rather excellent Harveys Copperwheat, and it was time to say goodbye to the ales. But the weekend wasn’t quite finished as we returned to The Star for a Cream Tea and to reminisce on a weekend well spent. Having grown up in Sussex it was a pleasure to spend the time basking in it’s finery. For those looking for a way to experience the area for the first time I can’t recommend a better way to do so (assuming you’re partial to an ale or five of course).

So I return home relaxed, with my thirst truly slaked but my passion for ale growing ever stronger and a warm-glow of pride for Sussex and all it has to offer. Southern Ale Safaris have recognised what rich resources this part of the world has to offer ale-lovers and are to be congratulated for making it all so incredibly easy to appreciate.

Safaris start from £299 (based on two people sharing) and are available now for dates throughout this Summer and Autumn. More information can be found on the Southern Ale Safaris website and bookings can be made by phoning The Star, Alfriston, on 01323 870495.